All posts by Evan

Year Round

Sesame Seed Cookies

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Makes 36 cookies
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1 3/4 cups sesame seeds

1 cup butter, softened (2 sticks)

1 scant cup granulated sugar

1/3 cup plus 2 Tbl milk, divided

1 tsp vanilla extract

1 Tbl baking powder

4 cups all-purpose flour

In a large skillet over medium-high heat, lightly toast

  • 1 3/4 cups sesame seeds

This will probably be easier to do in two batches. Set aside in a pie plate or similar.

In a stand mixer, beat

  • 1 cup butter, softened (2 sticks)
  • 1 scant cup granulated sugar

until smooth and pale, about one minute. With the mixer on low, one at a time add

  • 2 eggs

Add

  • 1 tsp vanilla extract
  • 2 Tbl milk

and mix a few seconds to incorporate. Add

  • 1 Tbl baking powder

and mix. With the mixer running, gradually add

  • 3 1/2 cups all-purpose flour

The dough should be soft and pliable but not sticky. Use a little more flour as needed.

Dust a board or your counter with

  • 1/2 cup all-purpose flour

Scrape the dough onto the floured board, knead it a couple of minutes, cover and let rest 15 minutes.

While the dough is resting, preheat the oven to 375ºF and place a rack near the top. Line two cookies sheets with parchment paper.

Divide the dough into 36 even pieces. You can use a one-ounce scoop if you wish — I cut it into quarters, then each quarter into thirds, then pinch off thirds from each third. Whatever works for you. Roll each piece between your palms to form 36 balls. Pinch off bits from the big ones and add them to the small ones and re-roll if you want to to get them about equal in size.

Pour

  • 1/3 cup milk

into a small bowl. Take one dough ball at a time, coat it with milk then roll it in the sesame seeds. Pick up the coated ball and form it into a rectangle with your hands (try shaping it between your thumb and forefinger), getting the height between 1/2 and 3/4 inch. Place it on the parchment paper-lined cookie sheet.

Repeat for all 36 balls, 18 per cookie sheet, trying to keep the height about the same throughout. They don’t spread much, but do leave a bit of space between the cookies. After the first tray of rectangles is shaped, bake on a high oven rack for 14-15 minutes, turning once halfway through. Meanwhile shape the next 18 balls into rectangles.

With a spatula, slide the baked cookies onto a cooling rack.

Adapted from afamilyfeast.com

Year Round

Pumpkin Seed Hummus

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Makes about 2 cups

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2 cups pumpkin seeds, toasted

2 large garlic cloves

2 cloves garlic

2 Tbl Dijon mustard

1/2 cup rice vinegar

3/4 cup flavorless vegetable oil

Place in a food processor or a blender

  • 2 cups toasted pumpkin seeds
  • 2 large garlic cloves

Pulse until uniformly ground, scraping down the sides as needed. The mixture will be rough and sandy looking.

Add

  • 2 Tbl Dijon mustard
  • 1/2 cup rice vinegar

and pulse to combine. With the motor running, slowly drizzle in

  • 3/4 cup flavorless vegetable oil

Drizzle in

  • 1/4 cup hot water, or more if needed

processing until it is the consistency of thick hummus. Season to taste with

  • salt and pepper

Transfer to a serving bowl. Cover and refrigerate until ready to serve.

Year Round

Cranberry Walnut Buckwheat Shortbread

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Tasty, simple, and quite delicate. Also vegan and gluten-free.
Makes about 30 cookies

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1/2 cup coconut oil (or substitute Crisco, vegan margarine, etc.)

1/4 cup maple syrup

1 tsp vanilla extract

1 cup buckwheat flour

1/2 tsp cinnamon

1 cup finely chopped walnuts

1/2 cup dried cranberries

Preheat the oven to 350º F and lightly grease five 4-inch tart pans (see note at end).

In a stand mixer, combine

  • 1/2 cup coconut oil
  • 1/4 cup maple syrup
  • 1 tsp vanilla extract

Add

  • 1 cup buckwheat flour
  • 1/2 tsp salt
  • 1/2 tsp cinnamon

Mix until the dough is smooth. Add

  • 1 cup finely chopped walnuts
  • 1/2 cup dried cranberries

and mix on low to incorporate. Press the dough into the tart pans and bake for 20 minutes, or until starting to get dark around the edges. Slice each into 6 triangles while still warm, then let cool completely.

Note: The original recipe (adapted from Gluten-Free and Vegan Holidays by Jennifer Katzinger) calls for one 9-inch tart pan, sliced into 10 triangles. These light, fragile cookies break easily which is why I suggest smaller pans and cookies.

Fall, Winter

Curried Cauliflower & Potato Soup

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Roasting the cauliflower first adds depth. Some tomato and coconut milk give the broth a rich, silky texture.
Makes about 3 quarts

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2 tsp coriander

2 tsp cumin

1–1/2 tsp cinnamon

1–1/4 tsp turmeric

pinch cayenne pepper

1 small head cauliflower

2 TBL olive oil

1 large onion

1-2 carrots (for 1 cup diced)

3 large cloves garlic

1–1/2 tsp grated fresh ginger

1 tsp red chile pepper flakes

1 (14-16 ounce) can whole tomatoes, or no-salt tomato sauce

4 cups vegetable broth

2-4 russet potatoes (3 cups diced)

2-4 sweet potatoes (3 cups diced)

1 (14-ounce) can coconut milk

1 large lime

1 bunch cilantro

Preheat oven to 450ºF.

In a small bowl, combine

  • 2 tsp coriander
  • 2 tsp cumin
  • 1–1/2 cinnamon
  • 1–1/4 tsp turmeric
  • 1–1/4 tsp salt
  • 3/4 tsp pepper
  • pinch cayenne pepper

In a large bowl, toss

  • 1 head of cauliflower, cut into small florets (about 6 cups)
  • 1 TBL olive oil

Sprinkle with 1 TBL of the spice mixture and toss again. Spread in a single layer on a rimmed baking sheet. Roast the cauliflower until the edges are browned, 15 to 20 minutes. Set aside.

Meanwhile, in a large pot heat the remaining

  • 1 TBL olive oil

over medium-high heat. Add

  • 1 large onion, chopped
  • 1 cup diced carrot

and cook, stirring often, until starting to brown, 3-4 minutes. Reduce heat to medium and cook a few minutes more, stirring often, until the onion is soft. Add

  • 3 large cloves garlic, chopped
  • 1–1/2 tsp grated (or minced) fresh ginger
  • 1 tsp red chile pepper flakes
  • the remaining spice mixture

Cook, stirring, for 1 minute more.

Stir in

  • 1 (14-16 ounce) can whole tomatoes, or no-salt tomato sauce

scraping up any browned bits and breaking up the tomatoes, and simmer for 1 minute. Add

  • 4 cups vegetable broth
  • 3 cups diced peeled russet potatoes (1/2-inch)
  • 3 cups diced peeled sweet potatoes (1/2-inch)
  • 2 tsp lime zest
  • 2 TBL lime juice

Cover and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat to maintain a gentle simmer and cook, partially cover and stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are tender, 35 to 40 minutes.

Stir in

  • 1 (14-ounce) can coconut milk
  • the reserved roasted cauliflower

Return to a simmer to heat through. Serve garnished with cilantro.

Year Round

Hazelnut Sticks

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Crunchy with a strong hazelnut flavor. And they're easy: the nuts don't have to be toasted or skinned.
Makes about 40 cookies

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2/3 cup raw hazelnuts

1–1/4 cups unbleached all-purpose flour

scant 1/2 cup sugar

6 TBL unsalted butter

1 tsp vanilla extract

Line the bottom and sides of a 9×5 loaf pan with foil. (See note at the end of these directions for how to do this painlessly.)

In a food processor, combine

  • 2/3 cup raw hazelnuts (with skins still on them)
  • 1–1/4 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
  • scant 1/2 cup sugar
  • 1/4 tsp salt

Pulse until the hazelnuts are finely chopped. Cut

  • 6 TBL cold unsalted butter

into 1/2-inch cubes, add to the food processor and pulse until the mixture looks like coarse crumbs. Combine

  • 1 tsp vanilla extract
  • 2 TBL cold water

and drizzle into the processor bowl. Pulse just until the mixture resembles damp crumbs – it shouldn’t be a smooth mass, but it should stick together when pressed. Dump the mixture into the lined loaf pan and spread it evenly. Press it very firmly and compactly. Fold the foil over the dough and wrap it tightly. Refrigerate for 2 hours or overnight.

Preheat the oven to 350ºF. Position racks in the upper and lower thirds of the oven. Grease two cookie sheets.

Unwrap the dough and transfer it to a cutting board. Use a long sharp knife to cut the dough crosswise into 1/4-inch (or thinner if possible) slices. Use the knife to transfer each slice to the greased cookie sheets, placing the slices 1 inch apart. The slices will be fragile and require the support of the knife in transit.

Bake for 12 to 18 minutes, until the cookies are golden with golden brown edges. Rotate top to bottom and front to back halfway through for even baking. With a metal spatula, transfer the cookies to a rack to cool. May be kept in an airtight container for several days.

Variation: Almond Sticks

I just substituted 2/3 cup raw almonds for the hazelnuts. But I didn’t think the almond flavor was strong enough; next time, I’m going to use almond extract in place of the vanilla, or half almond/half vanilla.

NOTE: ♦ATTN To line pan with foil: Invert the pan, cover it with a piece of foil 4 inches longer and wider than the bottom of the pan, and with your hands press down on the foil around the sides and the corners to shape it like the pan. Dampen the inside of the pan slightly. Without tearing, press the foil into place in the pan.

 

Year Round

Pâte Sucrée

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16 ounces (about 1–5/8 cups) all purpose flour

8 ounces (2 sticks) butter

5.5 ounces granulated sugar

2 eggs

1–1/2 Tbl heavy cream

1 Tbl vanilla extract

This is a sweet tart dough. Makes 2 tart shells. Use one, freeze one to use later.

Sift

  • 16 ounces (about 1–5/8 cups) all purpose flour

and set aside. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, cream

  • 8 ounces (2 sticks) butter
  • 5.5 ounces granulated sugar

on high speed until light and fluffy, stopping regularly to scrape down the sides, bottom and paddle, about 8 minutes. One at a time, add

  • 1 egg
  • 1 egg yolk

and beat well between additions. Scrape one more time, then give it a good final mix on high speed. Add

  • the 16 ounces of sifted flour
  • 2 tsp salt
  • 1–1/2 Tbl heavy cream
  • 1 Tbl vanilla extract

Mix on low until the dough comes together. Finish mixing by hand with a large rubber spatula. Divide the dough into two flat, round disks. Double wrap tightly in plastic wrap and chill for at least two hours.

One hour before baking, roll out the dough on a heavily floured surface, until it is just shy of 1/4-inch thick. Roll the dough back onto the rolling pin, then gently roll it out over the tart pan. Press the dough into the pan to shape it, then cut off the excess, leaving 1/4-inch of overhang. Chill for one hour.

Adjust oven rack to center position and preheat the oven to 350°F. Remove the tart shell from the fridge, trim the overhang off of the edge of the tart, patch any thin parts or cracks with excess dough. Line the tart shell with foil and fill with weights or beans. Place the tart in the center of the bottom rack of the preheated oven. Bake for 20 minutes, rotating halfway through. Remove the weights and foil, and continue to bake until the bottom is golden brown, about 15-20 additional minutes. Cool the shell completely before removing from the pan or filling.

 

 

Summer

Fig and Hazelnut Tart

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1 cup blanched hazelnuts, toasted

1/3+ cup granulated sugar

scant light brown sugar

1/2 tsp kosher salt

2 large eggs

1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, cold, cut into chunks

1 Tbl Frangelico

1 Tbl vanilla extract

about 15 fresh black figs

In an 8- to 10-inch tart pan, make

  • 1/2 recipe for Pâte Sucrée (Sweet Tart Dough), blind baked and cooled

Preheat the oven to 375°F. Adjust oven rack to middle position. In a food processor, combine

  • 1 cup blanched hazelnuts, toasted
  • 1/3+ cup granulated sugar
  • scant light brown sugar
  • 1/2 tsp kosher salt

Pulse until the mixture is sandy and there aren’t large pieces of nuts left.  Add

  • 2 large eggs
  • 1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, cold, cut into chunks
  • 1 Tbl Frangelico
  • 1 Tbl vanilla extract

and pulse until the eggs are smooth but chunks of butter are still visible, about 15 – 20 short pulses. Scrape the sides of the food processor and pulse an additional 5 times. Scrape the mixture into the cooled tart shell. Arrange

  • about 15 fresh black figs, stems trimmed and cut in half

cut side up on top of the filling.

Bake 20 minutes at 375°F, then rotate the tart 90 degrees on the rack. Lower the oven to 325°F and bake until the figs begin to bubble and caramelize and the filling turns golden brown all over, about 45 additional minutes, turning again halfway through. Remove from the oven and allow to cool completely before serving.

Year Round

Cabbage with Mustard Seeds and Coconut

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Makes 2-4 servings

  • 1 TBL mustard oil
  • 1 TBL black mustard seeds
  • 2+ curry leaves
  • 1 medium head cabbage, cored and shredded
  • 1 tsp salt
  • 1/2 tsp sugar
  • 1 tsp chili pepper flakes
  • 4 fresh hot green chilies, cut into long thin strips
  • 1/3–1/2 cup grated desiccated coconut, unsweetened
  • ground coriander + turmeric as desired

Heat the mustard oil in a large frying pan. Add the mustard seeds and curry leaves. When the seeds turn gray and start popping (a few seconds), add the cabbage, salt and sugar.

Toss the cabbage quickly in the oil until it’s lightly coated with oil. Add the coconut, green chili, pepper flakes, coriander and turmeric. Stir 2-5 minutes until the cabbage turns bright green and slightly wilted; it should remain somewhat crunchy.

Serve with Basmati rice.

 

Year Round

Chestnut Honey Shortbread

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  • 1 1/2 cups flour
  • 1/2 cup white rice flour
  • 2/3 cup sugar
  • 1 tsp kosher salt
  • 1 1/2 sticks unsalted, cold butter, cut into 1-inch chunks
  • 1 TBL chestnut honey

Preheat oven to 325 F.

Pulse together the flours, sugar and salt in a food processor. Add the butter and honey and pulse to fine crumbs. Pulse a few more times until some of the crumbs start to come together, but don’t overprocess. The result will be like powdery crumbs when done, not at all like dough.

Press the “dough” into an even layer in an ungreased 9 x 13 pan, pressing fairly firmly to compact the dough. Bake until golden brown, 25-30 minutes. Transfer to a rack to cool.

Cut into bars, ♦ATTN while still warm.

Based on a recipe from Melissa Clark.

Year Round

Carrot and Turnip Slaw with Dill

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This is simple but surprisingly tasty and refreshing. It looks especially good if you happen to find turnips with purple flesh.

Peel and grate 1 lb. of carrots and 1/2 lb. of turnips. Toss with 2 TBL of chopped fresh dill. Whisk together 1/4 cup sherry vinegar, 2 TBL olive oil, 1/4 tsp cumin, 2 small garlic cloves finely grated, 1/2 tsp dried red pepper, 1 tsp kosher salt, 1/2 tsp pepper. Pour the dressing over the vegetables, toss until the slaw is evenly coated, cover and chill 1 hour or up to 2 days.

This is based on a recipe from Matt Lee and Ted Lee.

Year Round

Revani

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Preheat oven to 375 F. Combine in a mixing bowl:

  • 1/2 cup semolina
  • 2/3 cup flour
  • 1 TBL baking powder

In another bowl, mix for a couple minutes:

  • 1/2 cup sugar
  • 1 TBL olive oil
  • 1 tsp vanilla
  • 4 eggs

Combine the liquid and dry ingredients until mixed thoroughly. Pour into a greased 9-inch square cake pan and bake for 25 minutes. While the cake bakes, make a syrup by boiling together:

  • 1 cup sugar
  • 2 cups water

Boil for a few minutes. Remove from heat and stir in a some lemon juice. I used the very end of a lemon, so it wasn’t much. Perhaps 1/4 to 1/2 tsp. Let syrup stand.

When cake comes out of oven, cut cake into nine equal square pieces (or 12 if you want smaller servings). While the cake is still warm and using a spoon, distribute the syrup on top of the cake slowly, making sure the cake absorbs the syrup evenly.

Serve at room temperature, with whipped cream or thickened yogurt. Top with chopped pistachios.

Adapted from Binnur’s Turkish Cookbook

Year Round

Socca

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A giant chickpea-flour pancake. So simple and so delicious.

Preheat the oven to 425 F and heat a 12-inch cast iron skillet in the oven.

Combine

  • 1 cup chickpea flour
  • 1 tsp salt
  • 1 tsp pepper (some people will find this too intense)

Stir in

  • 1 cup water at room temperature

Stir until the mixture is smooth. You can leave the batter aside for up to 12 hours but don’t leave the pan in the oven all that time!

Coat the hot skillet with

  • 1 TBL olive oil

Pour in the batter and bake for 12 minutes. The edges should be firm. If the top is dry, brush with olive oil. Put pan under the broiler a minute or two; it will start to brown. Serve hot, or warm, cut into wedges.

You can vary this with other seasonings. We’ve reduced the pepper to almost nothing and adding a lot of rosemary.

Year Round

Bellevue Granola

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“It’s full of nuts”

Preheat oven to 300 degrees, convection bake if your oven does this trick.

In a very large bowl, mix together

  • 6 cups old-fashioned rolled oats (aka oatmeal)
  • 1–1/2 cups raw pistachios, hulled
  • 1 cup raw almonds
  • 1 cup raw pecans
  • 2 cups raw pumpkin seeds, hulled
  • 1 cup raw sunflower seeds
  • 2 cups coconut chips

Toss well with

  • 2 teaspoons kosher salt
  • 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
  • 1 teaspoon ground cardamom

Add

  • 1 cup extra virgin olive oil
  • 1–1/4 cups pure maple syrup, dark if available

Mix thoroughly. Spread mixture on two rimmed baking sheets in even layers and bake for 45-50 minutes, stirring 3-4 times during the baking, until golden brown and well toasted.

Serve with chopped dried California apricots, if desired.